The name on the door at L’Atelier de Saint-Germain carries the load of everything important that happened in cuisine in the last 50 years, but it’s rather a veil to a unexpected environment!
The giant shadow of the chef vanishes in a light chic milieu where the polite concierge directs you to the balcony. Yes, the balcony. Deux macarons et un comptoir? Oui!
It’s very refreshing and you’ll love sitting there watching the silent army of cooks marching in the open kitchen. It has everything to do with Robuchon’s vision of food, a pioneer that doesn’t go far from what Carême started and Escoffier wrote. It’s almost all in the great book but with modern genius touch and a pinch of exotic awareness, stretching the classic to his particular style of cooking. The whole thing is perfect, but the food is better (liar, sometimes the counter is a problem (just for the waiters), a true magical trip into the world of very exquisite French cuisine. Worth every franc.
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Pictures by António Cyrne